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Excursion to Esztergom
Excursion to Esztergom

Hungary's largest cathedral towers over the stunning scenery of the Danube Bend at Esztergom, former royal city and the birthplace of King Stephen I (975-1038). There has been a settlement here, guarding the western approach to the gorge, since Roman times. Medieval Esztergom was destroyed by the Turks in 1543, but the city rose again, and it now boasts a center full of baroque buildings.

The cathedral is by far the most imposing: it is 328 feet from the floor to the top of its huge, glittering dome. It includes one of the world's biggest paintings - an altarpiece based on the work of 16th-century Italian artist Titian. The white marble altar itself was designed in 1519 and made by expert craftsmen from Florence, Italy.

Among other treasures are the impressive Renaissance interior of the Bakócz Chapel and a gold and enamel Gothic cross known as the Calvary of Matthias Corvinus. The dome offers a spectacular view over Esztergom and its surroundings.

The present version of the cathedral was begun in the 1820s: Hungarian composer Franz Liszt celebrated its reconsecration in 1856 with a mass. Long before this second lease of life, Esztergom was the seat of the Hungarian Primate - head of the nation's Catholic Church - and an important royal base. King Stephen was crowned in a church on the site in AD 1000, and the remains of a royal palace are housed in the Castle Museum (Vár Múzeum) next door.

Two other museums are worth a visit. The Museum of Christian Art (Keresztény Múzeum) has a superb collection of medieval religious paintings and works by Italian artists such as Duccio di Buoninsegna, Lorenzo di Credi and Giovanni di Paolo. The Danube Museum (Duna Múzeum) features displays that clearly illustrate (despite Hungarian-only captions) the role of the river and its effects on the life of the town.

Info: Esztergom is 41 miles north of Budapest. Buses travel from Budapest's Árpád híd bus station and there is a regular service from Nyugati (Western) railroad station. For tour information contact Gran Tours ( Address: H-2500 Esztergom, Széchenyi tér 25 Phone:33 417 052; fax 33 413 756).
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