Start at the western end of the cours Saleya.

This square is where Nice's famous outdoor flower, fruit and vegetable market is held, an ideal place to hear the local patois and to taste local Nissart delicacies.

Head east past the palace of the former Dukes of Savoy and the Italianate 18th-century Chapelle de la Misericorde to the yellow house at the end of the square, where Matisse once lived. Turn left into rue Gilly, then continue along rue Droite, past Palais Lascaris.

Rue Droite contains some of the old town's top galleries and Provence's best bread shop, Espuno.

Continue straight on as far as place St-François and the early morning fish market.

Unusually, this is an inland fish market but, before the River Paillon was filled in, fishermen used to land here to sell their catch.

Continue down rue St-François. Bear right into rue du Collet, left at place Centrale along rue Centrale, then right into rue Mascoïnat until you reach place Rossetti.

Place Rossetti is dominated by the beautiful baroque Cathédrale Ste-Réparate, with its emerald dome of Niçoise tiles. Enjoy a coffee in one of the cafés here or an ice-cream from Fenocchio's.

Leave the square along rue Ste-Réparate. At the end, turn right into rue de la Préfecture.

The great violinist Niccolò Paganini lived and died at No 23.

A right turn opposite Paganini's house into rue St-Gaètan takes you back to the Cours Saleya.