One of the great attractions of Chiang Mai, especially of the Old City, are the numerous back lanes or soi. Quiet and shaded, they offer the visitor a unique chance to observe contemporary Thai urban life as they wind back and forth between the busier main streets of the city.

The best place to begin a walk around the Old City is Thapae Gate. Start here and walk west along Thanon Ratchadamnoen before turning south along Thanon Phra Pokklao.

On the right you will pass a fine 19th-century wooden temple called Wat Phan Tao. Once part of the royal palace of the rulers of Chiang Mai, the building was reconsecrated as a temple in 1876. Shortly beyond, it is impossible to miss the large gateway opening onto Wat Chedi Luang. King Saen Meuang Ma of Lan Na founded the great chedi (pagoda) of this temple in the late 14th century. In its present restored form it is about 60m high but before an earthquake damaged it in 1545 the central spire was almost 90m. The compound also houses the city pillar.

Continue west through the temple grounds, turn north along Thanon Chaban and then west again when you rejoin Thanon Ratchadamnoen.

In the distance, against Doi Suthep, you will see Wat Phra Singh, the city's most important and revered temple, founded about 1350. Note the elegant raised library building decorated with stucco angels; also the classical murals of the restored Viharn Laikhram.

Leave by the main gateway and head north to the cross-roads; turn east along Thanon Inthawarorot to the Three Kings Monument, built to commemorate the founding of the city. Return to the Thapae Gate area by any of the narrow lanes heading east.