Mexico City

By AAA Travel Editor

Most of Mexico City's major attractions are concentrated downtown, but even this is a sprawling area, so focusing on specific districts or neighborhoods will make sightseeing easier. The Zócalo is an obvious place to begin. Officially Plaza de la Constitución, this vast, open expanse of concrete covers nearly 10 acres; only Moscow's Red Square is larger. The ever-present human hubbub—not to mention the constant stream of taxis navigating the streets bordering the plaza—is a sight to behold.

Imposing buildings flank the Zócalo. The Metropolitan Cathedral , built over a 240-year period, is a mix of architectural styles, from a neoclassic clock tower to a baroque exterior decorated with statues and stone carvings. Inside are 16 chapels (all but two open to the public), each dedicated to a saint and lavishly decorated with statuary, ornate altars, paintings and tapestries.

The National Palace is the seat of Mexico's federal government. The main reason to visit is to see the grand Diego Rivera murals that illustrate scenes from Mexico's history. These vivid depictions emphasize brutality, and while historically accurate the effect is sobering. Relax afterward with a trip to the building's courtyard, where there's a cactus garden.

The Great Temple was discovered by a construction crew in 1978. Excavations revealed the buried remains of a large stone Aztec pyramid with wide staircases that had been destroyed by conquering Spaniards. The Great Temple Museum displays ancient artifacts retrieved from this site as well as from other archeological zones in Mexico.

The neoclassic Palace of Fine Arts , modeled after prestigious European buildings, is a legacy of the regime of dictator Porfirio Díaz. The exterior sculptures are a decorative highlight. The city's premier cultural center is home to the National Symphony Orchestra as well as the famed Ballet Folklórico de México .

Privileged Aztec emperors once took a break from overseeing their empire by relaxing at Chapultepec Hill, part of Chapultepec Park . This enormous green space has been enjoyed by workaday Mexican families for generations and is one of the fun things to do with kids. The cobblestoned walkways see their heaviest foot traffic on Sunday, when most residents have their day off. The major tourist attractions are located in the park's eastern section off Paseo de la Reforma.

The Monument to the Child Heroes , near the main entrance, is a memorial to six cadets who defended Chapultepec Castle during the Mexican-American War. The castle, a former military college, stands atop Chapultepec Hill. You can hike to the top (a fairly steep climb) or board a small tourist train near the park entrance. Next to the castle is the National Museum of History ; a guided tour of the 12 exhibit halls traces Mexican history up to the adoption of the 1917 constitution.

Near the Chapultepec Park Zoo is the National Museum of Anthropology , with world-class exhibits of temple reconstructions, archeological artifacts, stone carvings, ceramics, decorative objects and masks. The focal point in Aztec Hall is a 24-ton calendar stone with a sun god face carved in the center, while Teotihuacán Hall features a reproduction of that major archeological site's Temple of Quetzalcóatl.

North of the Historic Center is the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (arrange for a driver to take you there if you're not familiar with Metro, the city's subway system). It honors the Guadalupe virgin, Mexico's patron saint; devout Catholics believe she appeared to a peasant Indian at this site, asking him to build a church. In addition to the ultra-modern New Basilica, several other churches stand on the grounds of this sprawling complex.

Over the last decade or so billionaire Carlos Slim has largely been behind the transformation of a formerly depressed area north of the Historic Center, which is now a prosperous district of high-rise offices and apartment buildings centered around Plaza Carso. The destination is also home to several new-ish attractions. The Soumaya Museum houses the Mexican businessman's personal art collection. This asymmetrical structure, covered with 16,000 gleaming hexagonal aluminum plates, looks mega-cool from the outside. Inside are paintings by Salvador Dali, Vincent Van Gogh and Claude Monet, as well as coins, ancient artifacts and casts of Rodin sculptures.

At 250 feet tall, the Revolution Monument is a city landmark. Topped by a copper dome, it is the final resting place of revolutionary Pancho Villa and four Mexican presidents: Venustiano Carranza, Plutarco Calles, Lázaro Cárdenas and Francisco I. Madero. The neoclassic building housing the San Carlos National Museum was once the residence of Mexican military generals; it contains a top-notch collection of paintings by such European masters as Rembrandt, Titian and Peter Paul Rubens.

If you're pinching pennies or just want to savor some authentic street food, stop at one of the vendors who set up on almost every street corner and purchase a couple of tacos al pastor. The grilled pork and onions are heaped on a corn tortilla and garnished with cilantro; they're cheap and mighty tasty.

Getting There

By Air

Two passenger terminals, Terminal 1 and Terminal 2, are at opposite sides of the airport and connected by a monorail that can only be accessed by passengers with a boarding pass, confirmed ticket or an e-ticket reference number. T1 handles most domestic flights; T2 handles most international flights. Phone (55) 2482-2400 for recorded information regarding Terminal 1, (55) 2598-7000 for recorded information regarding Terminal 2.

The first stop after arriving at the airport is Immigration, where an official will validate the FMM (Forma Migratoria Múltiple) tourist permit that you received and filled out during the flight. (This permit is sometimes referred to as a “landing card.”) The next stop is baggage claim, where you will hand over your customs declaration form (if you're bringing anything that must be declared), and your bags will pass through an automated X-ray inspection.

In the arrivals hall you'll find Banamex and Bancomer bank branches, ATMs, cellphone rental and internet access companies, casas de cambio (currency exchange offices), a food court and a variety of gift and duty-free shops. Rental car agencies include Hertz.

Mexico City Hotel and Motel Association representatives (look for booths near the baggage claim area) can help you with booking a room at one of their member properties. Authorized baggage handlers are identified by the “Union” ID placard attached to their handcarts.

If you'll be flying to other cities within Mexico, make all flight arrangements prior to your departure. Contact your local AAA travel advisor for help finding cheap airline flights and travel packages.

Allow for sufficient travel time to the airport—a minimum of 45 minutes if you're based in the downtown area. Arrive at least an hour before departure for domestic flights, 2 hours before departure for international flights. If you have an early morning flight, a convenient place to stay is the Courtyard by Marriott Mexico City Airport; a pedestrian walkway connects it to level 2 of Terminal 1.

Authorized airport taxis are the safest way to reach the downtown area from the airport. The yellow-and-white vehicles, sedans or minivans, have a black aircraft symbol on the door and are labeled “Transportación Terrestre” (Ground Transportation). Taxis require prepayment at the official airport taxi counter; look for the Taxi Autorizada booth in the baggage claim area. Rates are based on a zone system and vary according to distance; consult the map at the taxi counter to verify your destination. The fare to downtown Mexico City should not be more than 300 pesos.

Workers wearing yellow will escort you to an available taxi and give a voucher to the driver. Do not negotiate with anyone who approaches you with the offer of a ride into town. The ride to the city center takes 25 minutes to an hour, depending on the time of day. Tipping is customary if the driver helps with your luggage. Since negotiating for a taxi can be a hectic experience, it may be worth the effort to prebook a taxi prior to your arrival; services like Mexico Airport Transfers allow you to book a taxi from the airport online.

Metrobús buses run between the airport and downtown. Color-coded red buses (Line 4) depart from both terminals approximately every 20 minutes daily, 4:30 a.m.-midnight. The ride takes about 30 minutes and the fare is 30 pesos, plus 10 pesos for a prepaid Metrobús smart card. Bus drivers only accept the card as payment; the cards can be purchased in both terminals from vending machines that only accept Mexican pesos.

If you're traveling light you might consider using the Metro rapid transit system. Large pieces of luggage aren't allowed on board, however, and riding a crowded subway car weighed down with anything more than an overnight bag is not only cumbersome but unsafe. The airport station is Terminal Aérea (Air Terminal Building, line 5) on Boulevard Puerto Aéreo. The main terminal is within walking distance; follow the signs. To reach the downtown area from the airport, take the subway to the Pantitlán station and switch to line 1.

Note: At time of publication, Felipe Ángeles International Airport was scheduled to open in March 2022, but only domestic airlines had announced flights.

By Car

Leaving the city, the main thoroughfares are Avenida Insurgentes Sur, which becomes Mex. 95-D as it heads south to Cuernavaca, Taxco and Acapulco; running north, Avenida Insurgentes Norte becomes Mex. 85-D/85 heading toward Pachuca. The Periférico loops around the city's western and southern sides. It is called Avenida Avila Camacho within the city and becomes Mex. 57-D heading northwest toward Querétaro. Avenida Constituyentes runs west past Chapultepec Park and becomes Mex. 15 as it heads toward Toluca; Calzada Ignacio Zaragoza leads east out of the city, becoming Mex. 190-D as it heads toward Puebla.

If you're driving in and out of the metropolitan area, try to time your arrival and departure times as early as possible to avoid getting stuck in the near-constant traffic.

Note: Seat belt use by the driver and all passengers is required within Mexico City.

By Bus

Bus travel is available from Mexico City to nearly every town in the country, but reservations must be made. Most major Mexican lines offer first-class (lujo) bus service; these companies include Autobuses Cristóbal Colón, Autobuses del Oriente (ADO), ETN, Omnibus de México, Primera Plus and Tres Estrellas de Oro. Arrivals and departures at bus stations in Mexico are usually announced in Spanish only.

Mexico City has four main bus terminals that correspond to the four compass points. By far the largest of the four is the Terminal Central de Autobuses del Norte, Av. Cien Metros #4907 (M: Autobuses del Norte, line 5). Most of the buses traveling from the northern border arrive at this terminal, also known as “Terminal Norte” or “Camiones Norte.” From here, buses travel to almost every destination north and west of the capital, including the Pacific Coast resorts from Manzanillo northward; inland cities such as Aguascalientes, Guadalajara, Guanajuato, Monterrey, Morelia, Querétaro and San Miguel de Allende; and the nearby archeological sites of Teotihuacán and Tula.

The terminal offers currency exchange services (during normal banking hours) and has a hotel reservations booth. Taxis charge standard fares based on a zone system; tickets are purchased at booths inside the station. Count your change carefully, as overcharging is common.

Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente (TAPO) is at Calzada Ignacio Zaragoza #200, near the airport (M: San Lázaro, line 1). Buses travel to and from destinations to the east and south, including Jalapa, Puebla, Veracruz, Villahermosa, Oaxaca, San Cristóbal de Las Casas, Tuxtla Gutiérrez and cities on the Yucatán Peninsula. There are taxi ticket booths and currency exchange services at the terminal.

Terminal Central de Autobuses del Sur is at Av. Taxqueña #1320 (M: Taxqueña, line 2). At the end of Metro's line 2, this also is a major terminus for local city buses from downtown and other points north. From here buses arrive and depart for Acapulco, Cuernavaca, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Taxco and other points south and west of Mexico City. For day trips to nearby Cuernavaca, Cuautla and Tepoztlán, take one of the Pullman de Morelos buses. Estrella de Oro provides first-class service to Acapulco and Zihuatanejo.

The smallest of the four is the western station, Terminal de Autobuses del Poniente, Av. Sur #122 at Tacubaya (M: Observatorio, line 1). This is the easiest way to take a day trip to Toluca by bus. Service also is available to Morelia and Guadalajara; the going is slow but the scenery is pleasant.

Getting Around

City Layout

Many signs tend to be more confusing than enlightening. There is no real logic to the city's streets, which are named after rivers, mountains, foreign cities and countries, musicians, writers, doctors, composers, the states of Mexico and just about everything else. Streets also change names frequently.

Connected highways form the Circuito Interior, which roughly encircles the central city. Beginning at the airport, on the east side of town, Avenida Río Consulado runs north and then west, becoming Calzada Melchor Ocampo. Ocampo swings south, passing east of Chapultepec Park and intersecting Paseo de la Reforma, at which point it continues as Calzada Vasconcelos. Angling off Vasconcelos is Avenida de la Revolución, which runs south to Avenida Río Churubusco. Churubusco then proceeds east before turning north to connect with Río Consulado, southwest of the airport, and completing the circuit.

Theoretically, this loop provides a less congested alternative to the jam-packed streets within it. However, these roads themselves are usually crowded, particularly during the morning and evening rush hours.

Also within the Circuito Interior are axis roads (ejes), a series of numbered boulevards running one way only, with special lanes reserved for trolleys and buses circulating in the opposite direction. East-west Eje 1 Norte and Eje 2 Norte are north of the Zócalo, Eje 2 Sur through Eje 8 Sur run progressively south of the Zócalo. North-south Eje 1 through 3 Oriente are east of Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas, which divides the central city in half; Eje 1 through 3 Poniente are to the west.

Paseo de la Reforma intersects the central city. A legacy of self-proclaimed French emperor Maximilian, this broad artery runs southwest to northeast for more than 7 miles. From the eastern end of Chapultepec Park to past Alameda Park, Reforma is exceptionally wide and is punctuated by several glorietas (traffic circles).

An easily spotted reference landmark is the Independence Monument, a 150-foot-tall spire topped by a gold angel that stands at the intersection of Reforma, Avenida Florencia and Calle Río Tiber. Another is the Cuauhtémoc Monument at the intersection at Paseo de la Reforma and Avenida Insurgentes.

Insurgentes, the capital's longest thoroughfare, runs north/south, bisecting western and eastern sections of the city. East-west Viaducto Miguel Alemán runs south of downtown, connecting Calzada Ignacio Zaragoza at the eastern end of the city with the Anillo Periférico at the western end. The Periférico (Mex. 57) traverses the city's western and southern sections.

Driving just about anywhere within Mexico City is a daunting prospect and not recommended. The sheer number of vehicles makes for an extremely slow pace. Add to that aggressive tactics (locals often disregard traffic signals), frequent construction, detours and a plethora of one-way streets, and you're far better off relying on taxi transportation provided by your hotel. Above all, never drive alone after dark due to the risk of car hijacking, robbery or assault.

If you must drive, always park in a guarded lot; street parking is not only hard to come by but chancy, as vandalism can occur. Any vehicle parked illegally is likely to have the license plate removed by police; expect to pay a fee to get it back. Never leave valuables in your car, even if hidden.

At many downtown intersections, motorists stopped at a red light will be besieged by everyone from beggars to performing children (whose parents are often sitting on a nearby corner) to vendors selling newspapers, flowers, candy and trinkets. The best defense if you're part of this captive audience is to keep your door locked, your window rolled up and look straight ahead, avoiding eye contact.

Speed limits are shown in kilometers. If a road, avenue or street is unmarked, follow these general guidelines: school zones, 20 km/h (10-12 mph); residential streets, 30 km/h (20 mph); main streets, 50 km/h (30 mph); avenues, bypasses, loop roads and overpasses within the city, 60 km/h (35 mph); main highways, 100 km/h (60 mph); selected main highways and toll roads, 110-120 km/h (65-75 mph).

Taxis

J.R. Taxi is a reliable taxi service; the owner/driver speaks English, is familiar with all of the city's major tourist attractions, and can pick up passengers at the airport or at designated bus stations. Favorable rates are offered to AAA members, and American Express, Mastercard and Visa are accepted. Phone (044) 55-5100-7542 (cell number) in Mexico City, (044) 5100-7542 elsewhere within Mexico, or (52-155) 5100-7542 outside of Mexico.

If your hotel doesn't provide transportation or you otherwise need a taxi, the U.S. Embassy strongly urges that you ride only in a taxi summoned by phone from a designated sitio (SEE-tee-oh) stand. They are considered safer than taxis that circulate because the driver can be easily traced back to the stand. Many of the stands list telephone numbers where the taxi can be called. Arrangements also can be made to have these cabs pick you up at a predetermined time and place.

Ask for the license plate number and the cab driver's name, and only use taxis with plates beginning with the letter “S,” which are assigned to a particular site—such as a hotel—and registered. The number on the license plate should match the number painted on the side of the cab. It's much easier to negotiate for a sitio taxi if you speak fluent Spanish.

For safety reasons, you should never hail a cab on the street. Also avoid the constantly cruising taxis with license plates containing the letter “L” (libre cabs). While residents must use these taxis to get around the overcrowded city, their drivers drivers often are involved in robberies against passengers. The drivers themselves also are frequent victims of assault, making this a dangerous profession.

Rental Cars

Vehicles in the Mexico City metropolitan area, including Ciudad de México (CDMX) and parts of the state of Mexico, may not be driven on certain days based on the last digit of the license plate. Double check that your exact rental can be driven on the days you want to use it; a rental agency may inadvertently provide you with a vehicle that can't be driven on those days.

Although having a rental car at your disposal can be convenient for sightseeing trips outside the metropolitan area, keep in mind that your rental car may unfortunately make you a target for police who will try to extract a bribe.

Buses

Two major bus routes put you within walking distance of many of the city's attractions. The east-west route links the Zócalo with the National Auditorium in Chapultepec Park and continues to the Observatorio Metro station (line 1), traveling along Avenida Francisco I. Madero, Avenida Juárez and Paseo de la Reforma. These buses are usually marked “Zócalo” on the windshield.

Buses running north-south along Avenida Insurgentes connect the huge Terminal Norte station with the southern suburbs of San Angel and University City via the Zona Rosa. These buses are usually marked “Indios Verdes-Tlalpan.”

Never carry valuables onto a city bus, and know exactly where you're going before you board. But unless you simply want to have the experience of riding the bus, it's safer and much more convenient to get around in a taxi associated with your hotel.

Peseros

The main east-west and north-south corridors (the Zócalo to Chapultepec Park and Avenida Insurgentes Sur, respectively) are the most convenient routes. Try to have the exact change in pesos and never pull out a wallet, which will attract the attention of pickpockets.

Millions of working-class city residents ride peseros every day, but like city buses they're a form of public transportation best experienced for the thrill; drivers slouch in their seats, blasting music and aggressively maneuvering through chaotic traffic while passengers hang on for dear life. If you're not used to traveling like that, a hotel-designated taxi is still the safest—and sanest—way to travel.

Metro

Line 1 runs roughly west to east from the Observatory, near Chapultepec Park, to Pantitlán in the eastern suburbs, passing south of the Zona Rosa and the Zócalo. If you're going to the airport, switch to line 5 at the Pantitlán station. Line 2 begins in the northwest part of the city at the Cuatro Caminos station, proceeds east, burrows under the Zócalo and then runs above ground south to the Taxqueña station.

Line 3 runs from the Indios Verdes station, north of the Basilica of Guadalupe, south past Alameda Park to University City (National University of Mexico campus). Line 4 runs north to south east of downtown, from the Martín Carrera to the Santa Anita stations. Line 5 runs from the Politécnico station south to the La Raza station, then east and south to Pantitlán, with a stop (Terminal Aérea) at the airport. Note: To switch from line 3 to line 5—or vice versa—at the La Raza station requires a 10- to 15-minute walk through a long tunnel.

Line 6 runs north of downtown, proceeding east from the El Rosario station to the Martín Carrera station via the Instituto del Petróleo and Deportivo 18 de Marzo stations. Line 7 runs north to south along the city's western edge from the El Rosario station to the Barranca del Muerto station. Line 8 runs from the Garibaldi station (one stop north of the Bellas Artes station on line 2) south and east to the Constitución de 1917 station, in the southeast section of the city. Line 9 parallels line 1 and runs south of it, from the Tacubaya station in the west to the Pantitlán station in the east.

Two additional lines provide light rail service. Line A runs from the Pantitlán station (the eastern terminus of lines 1, 5 and 9) south to the La Paz station; Line B serves the Buenavista Railroad Station and runs east to the Garibaldi station (the northern terminus of line 8), then north to the Ciudad Azteca station. The tren ligero line runs south from the Taxqueña station south to Xochimilco.

The flat fare, which includes transfers, is 5 pesos. Ticket vending machines dispense prepaid electronic farecards in various denominations. Swipe the cards at long rows of turnstiles to access the boarding ramps. If you plan on using the subway, purchase several tickets at a time to minimize your time spent waiting in lines. You also can purchase an abono ticket, which lets you use the entire system for a multi-day period. (With this type of ticket, enter Metro stations only through the blue turnstiles; otherwise the ticket will not be returned.)

Metro is accessible for people with disabilities, and those over age 65 ride free by going through the turnstiles that have police officers. Present a legal ID and an officer will swipe the machine for you. Once inside the turnstile, riders can access any of the system's lines.

Metro lines are designated by the following colors, which appear at the stations, on signs and in guidebooks and brochures: lines 1 and A, bright pink; line 2, blue; line 3, olive green; line 4, light blue; line 5, yellow; line 6, red; line 7, orange; line 8, dark green; and line 9, brown. Consult a color-coded subway guide at Metro information booths, or try obtaining a map of the system from the ticket booths at the larger stations.

The most striking aspect of the subway is the sea of people. There are restrictions on carrying personal items like luggage and backpacks, but the rules aren't enforced; many people tote large bundles and plastic bags filled with goods. The modern rail cars show some wear and tear as well as graffiti, but the ride is smooth and quiet. Keep in mind, however, that Metro is used daily by millions for commuter travel, so sardine-can conditions usually prevail. During weekday rush hours (both morning and evening) the trains are crammed and guards are employed to control the crowds; avoid using the system during these times and also after dark.

There are plenty of restrooms and the ubiquitous stands selling food and snacks. Most areas are well illuminated and ventilated. Cellphones generally do not work underground, and taking photographs is not permitted.

Pairs of police officers are at station entrances, and there are more police at turnstiles and patrolling the ramps, but they do not in general ride on the rail cars. Single women, unfortunately, may have to fend off unwelcome advances or inappropriate male conduct. Foreign visitors are prime targets for pickpockets and purse-snatchers, especially at stations near major tourist sights. There are separate cars for women and children during rush hours, but regulations are not strictly enforced.

Although it can be convenient to use the subway for sightseeing, especially to get to Xochimilco or the southern neighborhoods of Coyoacán and San Angel, for safety's sake it's best to hire a taxi affiliated with your hotel if you intend to visit these areas. If you do need to take Metro for any reason, double check which direction the train is heading. Check the signs on the loading platforms (andenes); they denote the last station on the line in each direction. For example, Dirección Pantitlán and Dirección Observatorio indicate the last stations for line 1. Transfer gates, where more than one line shares a subway station, are marked Correspondencia; the exits are marked Salida.

Metro is least crowded on weekends and holidays. In general trains begin running at 5 a.m. Mon.-Fri., 6 a.m. Sat., 7 a.m. Sun., and operate until 12:30 a.m. It's best not to carry personal items that hinder movement, and remain aware of your surroundings at all times.

Guides/Tours

Taxi drivers also can function as a driver/bodyguard/guide, even if it means waiting by the car for an hour while you stroll one of the city's tourist-friendly neighborhoods. Rates are negotiable, but expect to pay a minimum of 230 pesos an hour. You'll likely find it well worth the price to not have to negotiate city traffic or use public transportation.