Cote d'Albatre
Normandy, Normandy
Stretching for 80 miles (130 kilometers) along the northern coast of Normandy, the Côte d'Albâtre (Alabaster Coast) is best known for its soaring white chalk cliffs overlooking the English Channel—it’s France’s answer to the Cliffs of Dover. Once an inspiration for Impressionist artists such as Monet and Renoir, the cliffs are now a protected natural attraction and a popular location for hiking, cycling, and sailing.
The basics
The Alabaster Coast runs from Le Havre and Le Tréport. Opt to hop between fishing villages, laze at a pebble beach, or embark on a steep hike to the top of the cliffs. The coastal town of Étretat is a great option for a day or overnight trip, as it offers numerous walking and hiking paths along the GR21 trail, all with impressive panoramic viewpoints. The cliffs are also visible from the beach and boardwalk in Étretat. Look out for the curiously shaped rock nicknamed l'Aiguille (The Needle).
Plenty of excursions visit the cliffs, and many include transport—choose from chauffeured day trips to a guided half-day 9-mile (14-kilometer) hike. While the white chalk cliffs are the Alabaster Coast’s star attraction, other must-see sights include bustling Honfleur; Miromesnil Castle, the birthplace of the author Maupassant; the cliffside port town of Fécamp, and picturesque Dieppe, a coastal resort.
Things to know before you go
This may seem like a no-brainer, but it can’t be stressed enough: Wear appropriate footwear. The trails are typically steep and you don’t want to lose your balance.
While many paths have safety rails, keep an eye on children and don’t stray from the marked trail.
The coast of Normandy is famous for its biting winds, which can be formidable even in summer. Be sure to dress in layers and bring along a sweater or windbreaker if planning a walk or hike.
Bring your camera, or make sure your smartphone camera is charged. The cliffs make for top-notch photo opportunities.
Don’t miss the climb to the clifftop Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde in Étretat, although be prepared for over 300 steps. There’s a scenic tourist train for those who prefer to give their legs a rest.
Looking to explore the area by kayak or boat? The one-time fishing port of Fécamp is a great starting point. You’ll get to paddle past the point where Monet once set up his easel.
How to get there
Le Havre is reachable by high-speed TGV train from Paris in around two hours or by car in about 2.5 hours. It’s also possible to travel from Portsmouth across the English Channel in the UK on an overnight ferry; overnight sailings are seasonal, so check the calendar in advance. From Le Havre, you can continue onto Etretat in just over 30 minutes by car or on Bus Line 13.
When to get there
Summer is the most popular period for visiting the Côte d’Albâtre; unsurprisingly, it’s also the most crowded season. Consider the shoulder months of April or May, or again in September or October to benefit from relatively temperate weather and a fraction of the usual tourists. Note that some coastal walking paths are only accessible during low tide, so plan your routes accordingly.
How to follow in the footsteps of Monet through France
For a Monet-themed itinerary, head first to the Musée Marmottan in Paris—home to the world’s largest collection of Monet paintings—plus art from many of his Impressionist contemporaries, including Renoir and Pissaro. Don’t miss, of course, Monet’s lily pond-filled estate in Giverny, which is just outside Paris and reachable by regional train. While in Normandy, head to Rouen, the picturesque cathedral town where Monet painted his famous Rouen Cathedral series in the 1890s. Finally, top it all off with a trip to the Alabaster Coast.
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