Kharana Castle (Qasr al-Kharanah)

The basics

Located on the highway connecting the small town of Azraq to the capital Amman, Qasr al-Kharanah is one of a trio of ancient Ummayad and Roman-era structures in eastern Jordan, collectively nicknamed the Desert Castles. Despite appearances, Qasr al-Kharanah is not really a castle—it’s believed that the fortress-like building once hosted meetings between local leaders. It’s easy to reach independently with private transportation and is also a stop on many half or full-day guided tours.

Things to know before you go

• A bundled admission ticket includes entry into all three desert castles. Qasr al-Kharanah is also part of the Jordan Pass, which gets you admission into more than 40 attractions throughout the country, including Petra and Wadi Rum.

• Don’t miss the on-site Visitors’ Center, where you can read up on the area’s history. Public restrooms are also located here.

• While there’s no official gift shop, you’ll find a selection of souvenirs available for sale in a Bedouin tent just outside the castle, where you can also grab a mint tea.

• Don’t forget your camera: Qasr al-Kharanah is considered the most stunning—at least from the outside—of the three desert castles and is a popular spot for photographers. For the best lighting conditions, avoid the bright sun of midday.

How to get there

Qasr al-Kharanah is located on Highway 40, about 10 miles (16 kilometers) from Qasr Amra and about a 30-minute drive from Qasr Azraq. Public transportation options are limited in this part of Jordan. Visitors typically arrange for a round-trip taxi from Azraq or Amman—about an hour’s drive away—or visit all three desert castles as part of a guided tour. Many tours also include hotel transfers.

When to get there

During the winter months, Qasr Kharana stays open from 8am to 5pm, with the last admission tickets available at 4pm. It remains open for an additional hour in the evening in the spring and summer months. While it’s a lovely spot to visit year-round, avoid visiting during the hottest part of the day if coming during the summer—roughly 10am to 2pm—and bring sun protection and plenty of water.

The “Desert Castles” Loop: Qasr Amra and Qasr al Alzraq

Qasr Kharana is seldom visited on its own. When in the area, make sure to visit two other neighboring desert castles. Qasr Amra is a UNESCO-listed Ummayad pleasure palace that remains an incredible example of early Islamic art and architecture (check out the vivid fresco scenes inside.) While the Roman-era Qasr al Alzraq is most famous for being the base of operations for T.E. Lawrence—“Lawrence of Arabia”—during the Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire.