La Viña
Cádiz, Andalucia
Wrapping around Santa María Square, La Viña is a neighborhood of whitewashed homes and narrow lanes. Once a working-class bastion, the neighborhood now hosts a selection of tapas bars that are among the best in the city. The heart of the action is pretty Calle de la Palma, a cobblestone street lined with café tables, palm trees, and socializing crowds.
The basics
Visiting La Viña is less about major sites, and more about soaking up the atmosphere. That’s why it’s on so many walking, bike, and tapas tours of Cádiz—La Viña is a great excuse to slow down. Another reason to visit La Viña is to see flamenco dance and music; the neighborhood is a hub of the local flamenco scene, with shows at clubs called peñas as well as more informal performances at bars.
Things to know before you go
This is a great place to sample local cuisine. Tapas bars serve small plates called raciones, so you can try a wide variety.
If you’re visiting during Carnival, head to Calle Virgen de la Palma. That’s where musical groups perform from makeshift stages.
Don’t miss the sunset: Nearby Caleta Beach has gorgeous sea views.
How to get there
La Viña is the westernmost point in the Cádiz Old Town: It’s bordered to the west by Caleta Beach, with Avenida Campo del Sur running along its southern edge. Walking and biking are both good ways to explore the compact, mostly flat neighborhood, as its narrow streets and very limited parking make driving impractical.
When to get there
Evening strolls through La Viña to watch the sunset at Caleta Beach are something of a local tradition, but the neighborhood's street life doesn’t light up until a little later on. Tapas bars begin to buzz around 8pm, generally staying open through midnight (or even later). To make the most of the scene, plan to eat late.
The best tapas to try in Cádiz
Great bites abound in the city—but there are some must-try plates to watch for. One specialty is chicharrones de Cádiz (fat-marbled slices of pale pork). Crisply fried shrimp fritters called tortillas de camarones are also popular. At the Central Market (Mercado Central), seafood is the main draw, and market tapas bars feature freshly caught treats such as mussels, clams, and fried sea anemones.
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