By Jennifer Broome
Proving its popularity as a travel destination, more and more people are planning a Croatian vacation. Its ancient walled cities, idyllic islands, mountainous landscape and extremely friendly locals attract tourists in droves. Often considered to be one of the safest countries in the world, Croatia is regarded as one of the hottest travel destinations in Europe. If you prefer a visit without as many crowds, consider going in April, or from mid-September through October.
Planning which locations to see on your trip can be a large task, so for your planning convenience, here are 7 of the best places to visit in Croatia.
1. Explore in the Walled City of Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is often most visitors first stop in Croatia. It’s a popular port for cruise ships and regarded as one of the best Mediterranean cruise destinations. Walking the Dubrovnik Ancient City Walls is the number one thing to do. Circling most of Old Town, the 1.3 miles of wall was built from the 11th to 13th centuries to protect the city from war and epidemics.
There’s an extra cost, but Duro Pulitika art studio/museum is worth a quick stop. If you get thirsty or hungry, there are several snack stands along the wall. As you peer over the stone city filled with red tiled rooftops, you get glimpses of everyday life in Dubrovnik and see children playing a yard or laundry drying in the sun. Perched on an imposing hilltop just outside of the city walls, Lovrijenac Fortress is sometimes called “Dubrovnik’s Gilbraltar.” It is a hike up to it, but the views of the Adriatic Sea and Dubrovnik are spectacular. Grab a coffee at Kop for an energizing boost and visit Lovrijenac early in the morning to avoid the crowds.
Dubrovnik is filled with delightful cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating, art galleries and a plethora of shops ranging for locally owned boutiques to well-known brands especially along the Strada, or Main Street. Cats are everywhere in Old Town and are considered Dubrovnik’s oldest citizens as descendants of the cats brought in to help fight the plague in the 13th century.
For a break for Dubrovnik’s bustling streets, take a tour of the Franciscan Church and Monastery. If you want to ride the Dubrovnik Cable Car, purchase your ticket in advance to avoid a long line. From the top, you’re treated to a breathtaking view of Old Town and the Elaphiti Islands. Dine with a view in Panorama Restaurant and Bar. One of my favorite spots for lunch or dinner is Dubraka 1836 Restaurant and Café located near Pile Gate, the west entrance, of Old Town. If you’re lucky enough to snag a table on their expansive patio, you’re regaled with great views of the Lovrijenac, Bokar and Minčeta fortresses while noshing on Mediterranean cuisine. It’s the perfect spot to feel the sea breeze as you sip a Croatian wine and devour one of their pizzas. There are multiple rooftop bars with stellar views in Old Town, but Buza Bar is most unique. You go through a literal “hole in the wall” to get to the cliffside bar. It’s cash only and if you’re brave you can scramble down for a swim in the Adriatic Sea. There are several wonderful gelato shops, but if you want a scoop flipped into your cone, Gelateria Dubrovnik adds a little extra fun to a cool treat.
Within Old Town, there are numerous vacation rentals and small boutique hotels. Almost all of these will involve steps as the city is built into a mountain. There’s also a plethora of intimate inns and larger hotels, especially near the west entrance. The city is doable in a day, however, if you stay for two or three days, consider adding a day trip to Montenegro and/or Bosnia and Herzegovina. Dubrovnik is very safe, even strolling the cobblestone streets of Old Town in the evening.
2. Take a Day Trip to Lokrum Island
This historic small island is a less than 15-minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik’s Old Town Harbour. You can spend a couple of hours or an entire day on Lokrum Island. During my second visit to Dubrovnik, I ditched the late afternoon city crowds to explore the forested island known for its monastery ruins. There are multiple legends about Lokrum Benedictine Monastery dating to 1023. As I wandered about the original Romanesque structure and Gothic-style monastery I was drawn into the mystic of those legends.
According to one, the monastery was built to honor Saint Benedict if he saved Dubrovnik from total fire destruction. It is documented a large portion of Dubrovnik was destroyed by a fire on the Day of Saint Benedict in 1023. Another legend is about Richard the Lion Heart and his return voyage from the Crusades in 1192. He vowed to build two churches because Lokrum was his haven from treacherous seas and weather.
The most fascinating legend is related to the “Benedictine Curse.” The last Benedictine monks left the monastery in 1798. They held candles upside down and left a trail of wax as they walked the island three times chanting “curse anyone who should take Lokrum for his own pleasure.” According to that legend, the curse will only be lifted when the last drop of wax is picked away. During the 1800s and early 1900s as the island changed hands several times, there were multiple mysterious prominent deaths. The island hasn’t been sold or bought again since 1925.
I was pleasantly surprised with how much there is to do on the island and got a sense it’s a favorite daytrip of locals. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes so you can explore the island and if you’re going to spend a half or full day, take your swimsuit. My favorite spot is Rocky Beach or “Stijene Rocks” as it called on the trail signs. The landscape almost seems out of this world and you get a wonderful view of Dubrovnik. There’s a small swimming hole named The Dead Sea with a restaurant and plenty of shade there. If you’re up for a short hike, venture to Charlotte’s Well. Finish your time on Lokrum with a stroll through the island’s lovely botanical garden before catching the ferry back to Dubrovnik. I caught one of the last ferries of the day and was treated to a glorious sunset over the walled city as we cruised back to the harbor.
3. Sip Wine and Catch a Show on Korčula
Dalmatian winemaking dates to when Greek settlers first cultivated grapes on islands like Korčula, also known as the birthplace of Marco Polo. If you’re an oenophile, you’ll enjoy sampling some varietals only found in Croatia. A group of friends and I rented Diamond Villa, a luxurious private villa overlooking the Adriatic Sea, for a week of adventure, relaxation and wine tasting.
Like Dubrovnik, Korčula has a walled Old Town. We started with a guided walking tour of the medieval city built on a peninsula of the island. Our guide andrea Tedeschi, told us there are 250 buildings and eight churches within the walls and she jokingly comment, you can “play and confess around the corner.” Philosophers Way is one of the most interesting streets in Old Town as it’s the oldest street without stairs. Just outside of the wall, there’s a seaside row of restaurants with extensive outdoor seating. Bistro Galeta is the perfect spot to dine on fresh seafood and sip a glass of Pošip, a white wine from grapes grown in Croatia for centuries. The Old Town area is filled with colorful art galleries and locally owned boutiques like Stella Maris where some of us bought a few fabulous vacation outfits. Catch a sunset from Massimo Cocktail Bar atop the Zakerjan Tower. You do have to climb a ladder, but the views are worth it.
Afterwards, head to Filippi for a wonderful 3-or 4-course dinner al fresco along the promenade of restaurants. From our glorious villa, we explored hilly Korčula during daily walks. One gem we found was Mimi’s Bistro in the tiny seaside village of Žrnovo. It’s wonderful for a breakfast or lunch nosh. The 15th-century St. Mark’s Cathedral in Old Town is worth a visit, but we also enjoyed walking to St. Martin’s Church in the Kampus hamlet. On one of walks, we found Tasovac Winery housed in a simple stone family home converted to a winery. It’s a lovely spot for wine tasting and the wines are delightful. Don’t miss seeing Moreska. The traditional sword dance and drama has been performed on the island for more than 400 years. We did two excursion days during our stay. One day we rented a boat for a snorkeling adventure and fabulous lunch at Estravaganca in Lovište, a small fishing village in Luka Bay on the Pelješac Peninsula. Another day we went to the Blue Cave. Croatia has a phenomenal ferry service making it easy to island hop or day trip to explore other islands like Mljet or Hvar.
4. Take a Boat Ride to the Blue Cave and Vis
The Blue Cave is a fascinating spot, but be forewarned, it’s very touristy. If waiting in line for 30-90 minutes to board one of the skippered small boats to go inside it for about 15 minutes isn’t okay with you, then bypass this stop on Bisevo, near the island of Vis, which is the farthest inhabited island from the Croatian mainland. You can visit easily by boat from Split (1.5 hours ride), from some of the Dalmatian Islands, or even on a speedboat tour from Dubrovnik. A naturally formed opening in cave’s roof allows sunlight to reflect off the water’s surface casting a vibrant cerulean blue color in the cave. Afterwards head to the island of Vis for lunch at Konoba Jastožera, which was originally a lobster farm, then wander the cobblestone streets of the seaside village of Komiža. If time allows, go for a swim in Stiniva Cove surrounded by cliff walls on the south side of Vis.
5. Stay in Split
I only had one night in Split and left truly wishing for a longer stay in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. This coastal city is one of the best beach towns in Europe and also known for its Roman ruins of the Palace of Diocletian built between 295 and 305 AD. Roman emperor Diocletian lived there until he died in 313 AD. By the later part of the 6th century, the palace was abandoned.
The historic royal residences, churches and fortifications are weaved into the cityscape blending Roman, Medieval and modern history. You can find chic and luxurious boutique hotels and vacation rentals within Split Old Town, or larger hotels along the sea. For a fabulous dinner, book a table at Mazzgoon. The family run restaurant has lovely outdoor seating in a picturesque nook next to Diocletian palace walls more than 1700 years old.
Whatever the homemade pasta special is, it will be phenomenal. I had a homemade tagliatelle with wine pressed cheese, truffle carpaccio and parsley pesto that was scrumptious. Get up early and enjoy the Diocletian Palace ruins without the crowds at sunrise. Enjoy a stroll along the sea then grab the avocado salmon toast for breakfast or brunch at Bepa before perusing the stalls of Pazar, or Green Market, like a local. Go on the 1.5-hour Diocletian’s Palace walking tour offered 3 times daily from April through October (once daily November-March). There’s also a 45-minute wine tasting experience if you want to sip some Dalmatian wines.
Due to the fact that Diocletian’s Palace is integrated into Split’s Old Town, there is no fee to explore it on your own. If you want to see excavated remains, you’ll need a ticket to tour the basement, which was originally the palace’s entrance from the sea. You’ll likely hear melodies wafting through the air as musicians play Dalmatian music in the alcoves of the palace. It’s part of the romance of Split that will make you fall in love with this city by sea.
6. Zip Up to Zagreb to Wander Cobblestone Streets
When my friend Kerry and I flew from Split to Zagreb, it felt like we had gone to a different country as the Venetian architecture changed to more Bavarian style. After we settled into our vacation rental, we set out to explore and quickly found Croatia’s capital city to be filled with incredible architecture and some intriguing and even quirky spots. We also found it to be a lot cheaper than the Adriatic coast.
Get lost in the oldest area of Zagreb wandering the narrow cobblestone street of Upper Town (Gornji Grad) dating to 1094. As the second tallest building in Croatia, the Neo-Gothic style of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary with its twin spires is jaw-dropping. One of the iconic 13th-century Gothic cathedral spires and nave were damaged in the 2020 earthquake. Restoration work is ongoing with the hopes the cathedral will reopen for 2024 Christmas services. The cathedral’s organ is considered one of the finest in the world. If visiting in summer or early fall, catch a performance during the annual Organ Festival.
There are hidden courtyards and enticing restaurants and bars everywhere you turn. For a true locals’ experience, take a morning stroll through Dolac Market, which is Zagreb’s main open-air farmers’ market. In the afternoon or evening, head to Tkalčićeva Street. Originally Zagreb’s red light district,” Tkalča as it is also called, is now filled with boutiques, restaurants and cafes. Both are very close to the Zagreb Cathedral. In the evenings, over 200 gas streetlamps are lit by hand following a tradition that started in 1863 and adds to the city’s charm.
While dining on Tkalča, nosh on štrukli. Zagreb’s version of comfort food, the traditional dish is dough filled with cottage cheese, sour cream and sometimes egg. Try something cooked Dalmatian peka style. The slow-cooking method is done in a clay or cast-iron bell-like dome dish placed on the hot coals of an open fire. For a farm-to-table experience with a view of the cathedral, dine at Pod Zidom where the chef shops daily at nearby Dolac Market. For traditional cuisine, Boban is an elevated option. Nav, Noel and Torero are upscale eateries for creative cuisine in Old Town.
In the city center, take a stroll through Grič Tunnel. Originally built during World War II as an air-raid shelter, the pedestrian tunnel isn’t just a shortcut, it’s also the site of rotating art installations. While wandering around the Dolac Market, I couldn’t help but dream of a return visit for the holidays to sip mulled wine while strolling through the Zagreb Christmas Market. Considered one of the best Christmas Markets in Europe, it runs from the Saturday before the first Sunday of Advent through early January. There are more than 25 shopping sites scattered throughout Zagreb’s squares and promenades.
The Museum of Broken Relationships in Upper Town will take you on an emotional rollercoaster ride from anger to tears as you travel around the world through snippets of breakups. Per capita, Zagreb has the highest number of museums in the world. You should also see the Zagreb Mummy in the Archaeological Museum, step back in time in an authentic Yugoslavian family apartment in the Zagreb 80’s Museum and explore innovation and technology in the Technical Museum Nikola Tesla. We also used Zagreb as our base to visit Plitvice Lakes National Park.
7. Visit Croatia’s Oldest National Park
Of the eight national parks in Croatia, Plitvice Lakes National Park is the oldest and largest. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The easiest way to enjoy Plitvice’s spectacular landscape filled with travertine lakes and waterfalls is by taking a private day tour from Zagreb. The park is about 2.5 hours from the city. Our guide Raefella was wonderful as she helped us navigate the park quickly to see scenic spots and avoid crowds. The series of lakes in the park are unique because of the limestone and chalk giving them emerald and turquoise hues. The numerous waterfalls and caves add to the mystic of the forested park where you could spot bears, wolves or any of 169 bird species.
If you have more time in Croatia, consider visiting Mljet National Park for an island park experience in the country’s archipelago of over 1,200 islands, islets, cliffs and reefs. If a party vibe is what you’re seeking, Hvar is for you. With 49 inhabited islands, you have lots of options to find your perfect one. Like it was for me, your first trip to Croatia or even your second, likely won’t be your last.
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