Amra Castle (Qasr Amra)

The basics

Wall paintings are the standout attractions in Qasr Amra in the reception hall and hammam. You’ll find vivid murals depicting the daily life of the Ummayad Caliphate, the first Muslim dynasty—including some salacious themes by contemporary standards, from dog races to nudes. The former pleasure palace can be easily reached by car with private transportation. For more information on the Ummayads, consider coming with a guide; plenty of half-day and full-day tours of northern Jordan include its three desert castles.

Things to know before you go

• Visiting Qasr Amra, Qasr Kharana (a 10-minute drive), and Qasr al Alzraq (under 30 minutes by car) together in a single day is a piece of cake. In fact, a combo admission ticket will get you entry into all three neighboring castles.

• Qasr Amra is also included in the Jordan Pass, which gets you admission into more than 40 attractions throughout the country, including Petra and Wadi Rum.

• Check out the painted domed ceiling in the caldarium, once a heated room in the castle’s thermal bath complex. It depicts the zodiac—one of the world’s earliest surviving representations of the cosmos.

• The structure is tiny and can fill up with visitors (or you might find yourself alone). Instead of battling crowds to catch a peek at the frescoes, just wait a few minutes. Thanks to the building’s compact size, tourists tend to move on quickly.

• Don’t miss a small on-site museum and visitor’s center, where you can get plenty of background about the palace and its history.

• The desert sun can be intense, so bring a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water.

How to get there

Qasr Amra is right off Highway 40, about 56 miles (90 kilometers) east of Amman. It’s an easy drive with your own transportation, but you’ll find limited options without a rental car. Either arrange a round-trip taxi ride in the capital or join a half-day or full-day excursion, many of which also include hotel pickup and drop-off.

When to get there

During the summer months, from May to September, the castle stays open from 8am until 6pm. During the fall, winter, and early spring, lasting from October to April, the site closes early at 4pm. It’s a pleasant place to visit year-round, although if coming in summer, you’ll probably want to avoid the hottest and sunniest part of the day (roughly 10am to 2pm).

The “Desert Castles” Loop: Qasr Kharana and Qasr al Alzraq

Few people visit Qasr Amra on its own. It’s part of what 19th-century archaeologists first nicknamed Jordan’s “Desert Castles” loop. While the buildings they describe—royal retreats, hunting lodges, bathhouses, and caravanserais—aren’t technically castles, the name still sticks. Towering Qasr Kharana is considered the most photogenic, while Qasr al Alzraq is where T.E. Lawrence—“Lawrence of Arabia”—was based during the Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire.