Et'hem Bey Mosque (Xhamia e Et'hem Beut)
Sheshi Skënderbej, Tirana, Albania, 1000
One of Tirana’s few surviving historical monuments, this small Ottoman-era stone mosque stands out against the capital’s modern concrete backdrop. In Skanderbeg Square, Et'hem Bey Mosque (Xhamia e Et'hem Beut) is renowned for its delicate frescos. It's a gathering point for Muslim worshippers and is open to tourists at times.
The basics
Constructed in the 18th century, Et'hem Bey Mosque is a historical attraction and a religious landmark. It survived all of Communist rule, remaining closed for decades. Today, the quaint mosque is an indispensable stop on most Tirana walking tours. Even if you have only a few hours to explore the city, you should pass Et'hem Bey, as it sits alongside sights including the Pyramid of Tirana, Skanderbeg Statue, and the National Historical Museum.
Things to know before you go
To enter the mosque, dress conservatively. Women are requested to cover their hair, and shawls are usually available. Keep knees, shoulders, and chests covered—that goes for men, too.
There is no charge to enter the mosque, even as a tourist. The building is small, so plan on about 15 minutes to admire the interior and frescos.
Remove your shoes before entering the mosque. There is a place to store them outside the door. Bring a pair of socks if you don't want to be barefoot.
Head next door to the Ottoman Clock Tower and climb the tower for a small fee. You'll get a bird’s-eye view of Skanderbeg Square, including the mosque.
How to get there
Downtown Tirana is walkable. If you’re staying at a centrally located hotel, then you’ll likely approach Skanderbeg Square on foot. For anyone coming further afield, taxis or rideshares are a great option. Multiple bus lines stop here. Guided walking tours often use Skanderbeg Square as a central meeting point.
When to get there
Opening hours for tourists can be erratic, but mornings are typically a good time to visit. Tourists cannot enter the mosque for Muslim prayer times. If you’re intent on getting inside, check up-to-date hours ahead of your visit. But don’t worry if you find Et'hem Bey closed—the frescos can be seen along the exterior wall, as well.
Understanding Albania’s Ottoman heritage
Albania was part of the Ottoman Empire from the end of the 14th century until the early 20th century. Even today, Albania remains about 55 percent Muslim. There are limited Ottoman historical buildings in Tirana, but if you're interested in soaking up Albania’s Ottoman history, head to Berat or Gjirokaster, two immaculately preserved Ottoman-built cities that are accessible from the capital. Berat is visitable as a day trip, while Gjirokaster requires at least an overnight.
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