Gebel el-Silsila
Fateira, Egypt, 1280482
Hacked into both banks of the Nile, where it narrows to a sandstone gorge, Gebel el-Silsila was an important ancient Egyptian quarry site—as well as a place of worship, where priests performed sacrifices to ensure fertile land and a good harvest. The west bank houses 32 rock-cut chapels, plus porches, stelae, and a temple. Nile views through the windows and gateways are mesmerizing.
The basics
Archaeologists are still excavating Gebel el-Silsila’s east bank, which is closed to visitors, but it’s possible to explore the west bank’s chapels, shrines, and monumental stelae for a small fee that’s payable on arrival. Freelance guides are prevalent at the site, but some have limited knowledge of history, archaeology, or foreign languages, so you might have a more relaxing experience if you arrive with your own guide.
Although the site is on the Nile, there’s no space for the big Nile cruise ships to dock. Most travelers visit on felucca sailboat or dahabeah houseboat cruises: These generally travel between Aswan and Edfu or Esna, south of Luxor, rather than running the Luxor-Aswan route the big boats offer.
Things to know before you go
Gebel el-Silsila is a great choice for history buffs and photographers alike.
The site is very exposed, with limited facilities. Carry water, wear a hat and sunscreen, and plan to eat and use the bathroom elsewhere.
Rugged and uneven, Gebel el-Silsila is not suitable for travelers with mobility issues.
How to get there
Gebel el-Silsila lies on the west bank of the Nile, about 45 miles (70 kilometers) north of Aswan. Most travelers visit on dahabeah or felucca cruises from Aswan to Esna or vice versa, but it is also possible to reach it by land. The west bank roads are in poor condition, so some drivers head to the east side and arrange a small boat.
When to get there
Gebel el-Silsila is open 7am–4pm daily. It’s reliably and blissfully empty, so visit at a time that suits your schedule—or your boat captain’s.
Picking the right Nile cruise
A surprising range of ships ply the Nile and your cruise experience will vary widely depending on which you choose. Top of the range is the SS Sudan, a lovingly refurbished 1920s paddle steamer that hosted scenes from Death on the Nile; budget travelers can explore the old-fashioned way, sleeping and eating on the deck of a felucca; with only a very few cabins, dahabeah houseboats pair the elegance of sail with timeless luxury. Or, of course, you can opt for the traditional cruise ship experience: Some ships feature swimming pools and nightly entertainment.
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