Mea Shearim (Me’a She’arim)

The basics

Mea Shearim is one of the oldest Jewish neighborhoods in Jerusalem—and not much has changed over a century and a half. While technically the area is open to visitors, the conservative, Yiddish-speaking Haredi community keeps its distance from outsiders and are loath for their neighborhood turning into a tourist attraction. Haredi residents also eschew modern media, so instead of blaring screens you’ll find posters telling visitors to dress modestly plastered to the walls.

Plenty of people show up independently, and as long as you’re not brazenly baring your knees or shoulders you’ll probably get a civil, albeit distant, welcome from local families, and a few curious glances. But you risk missing a lot of nuance and context if you go on your own. To understand the different sects within Judaism and the role of Haredi and Hasidic communities within contemporary Israeli society, visit with a guide on a walking tour.

Things to know before you go

• When community members tell you to dress modestly, they mean it. Even if it’s baking hot in the summer, you’ll need to wear long and loose pants (or skirts) and sleeves.

• Avoid public displays of affection if you’re traveling with a partner.

• Try to refrain from using your phone. People in the community reject modern devices for spiritual reasons, so follow their lead while visiting.

• Mea Shearim is known for its sweet and savory breads and pastries. Try fluffy challah, sufganiyot* donuts, and kugel noodle pies at Landener’s bakery, founded in 1884.

• Don’t take photos of people without permission. It’s not because the people aren’t friendly, but because they want to preserve their way of life. Nobody wants to feel like they’re in a zoo.

How to get there

Mea Shearim is easy to reach on public transport. The nearest bus stop is Hashabbat Square, just a 2-minute walk away. If you're coming from the Old City, get on Line 1 at the Western Wall and ride nine stops. You can also take the Light Rail at City Hall and ride it one stop to Yafo Center—Mea Shearim is just eight minutes on foot from there.

When to get there

To avoid layering up when Jerusalem is swelteringly hot, avoid the summer months. Shabbat is from Friday sundown through Saturday sundown, and while visiting during this period is generally not a good idea, it’s interesting to come on Friday afternoon when residents are scrambling to finish their shopping ahead of sundown. If visiting on Shabbat, you can’t exchange money, use electricity, work, drive a car, smoke a cigarette or light a fire.

The Jewish community of Nachlaot

Just a 15-minute walk from Mea Shearim, Nachlaot was founded a year later as a neighborhood development for religious Ashkenazi Jews from Europe. While Mea Shearim has stayed true to its roots, Nachlaot has become known less for its religious devotion and more for its distinctly hippie vibe and trendy, low-key cafes and pubs. Take a stroll through the eclectic neighborhood to experience a different side to Jerusalem.