Medina of Tunis

The basics

The Medina is relatively compact, but expect a maze-like experience; if you can, visit with a guide who can easily navigate the narrow, twisting streets. Plenty of shops sell spices, herbs, gold and silver jewelry, carpets, fabrics, and fez caps—all excellent souvenir choices. But don’t expect the Medina to cater to international tourists. This is very much a local hangout and many of the most picturesque mosques and madrasas are off-limits to non-Muslims.

The best way to experience the Medina is simply by strolling around and admiring the architecture: distinctive blue doors with metal motifs, restored mansions, and vaulted alleys. Pop into a café for fresh-squeezed juice or mint tea, or order a shisha pipe for a puff of flavored tobacco. While Rue Sidi Ben Arous and Rue du Pacha contain interesting routes, you won’t find many “must-sees” here; the Medina is meant to be experienced, not checked off a list.

Things to know before you go

• You may not find many English speakers in the Medina, so you’d do well to learn a few basic phrases of French (or Tunisian Arabic), especially if you plan on visiting independently. If you doubt your language skills, inquire about joining a guided tour.

• Bring your DSLR or smartphone camera. You’ll find lots of excellent photo opportunities here, although be sure to ask permission if you want to photograph any locals.

• While the Medina is generally safe, it is a good idea to keep a close watch on valuables, as pickpocketing can occur in crowded areas. Avoid visiting the Medina alone, especially while walking at night.

• Not all shops accept credit cards, so bring some Tunisian dinars if you plan on shopping. Don’t be shy about haggling; Some people recommend counter-offering half, or even a third, of the vendor’s first asking price.

How to get there

The Medina of Tunis is located smack dab in the city's center and has multiple entry points, but most people enter the historic district through Place de la Victoire. That’s where the main gate—known in Arabic as Bab el Bhar—can be found. From there, you can continue on foot, although remember that GPS navigations tend to err within the Medina.

When to get there

Come in the morning to watch vendors setting up for the day and avoid the midday crush of people. And bear in mind that the Medina has virtually no nightlife; arrive after the early evening, and you’re likely to encounter a ghost town. Also, avoid Friday afternoons, when shops and restaurants shut for Muslim prayers, and Sundays, when the Medina is typically closed.

What it’s like to stay in a traditional dar guesthouse

What the riad is to Morocco, the dar is to Tunisia. A stay at one of these atmospheric boutique guesthouses is one of the best ways to experience Tunisia’s traditional cultural heritage. Traditional mansions that have been converted into hotels, these centuries-old buildings are typically built around a tiled courtyard and contain lots of cozy period features (antique wardrobes, anyone?), plus perks like all-inclusive breakfasts.