Memory Lane (Omoide Yokocho)

The Basics

A series of narrow lanes that run alongside the north of Shinjuku railway station, Memory Lane has been a part of Tokyo life for decades. The ‘unofficial’ nickname, ‘Piss Alley’, refers to the lack of public facilities that once blighted the street, but you’ll be glad to know that after a renovation in the 1990s this is no longer an issue!

The best way to enjoy the street is to throw yourself into the throng and go with the flow. Locals and tourists alike cram into the various tiny restaurants to try yakitori skewers, ramen and udon noodle dishes, all washed down with a cold beer. If the idea of going it alone makes you nervous you can join a foodie tour with an experienced local guide to get the most out of your Omoide Yochoko experience.

Things to Know Before You Go

• Most restaurants in Memory Lane have a small cover charge.
• The alleys are narrow and crowded and may be difficult to navigate for people with limited mobility.
• You may have to search a little harder for vegetarian options but some restaurants do offer vegetarian dishes.

How to Get There

Memory Lane is located just a few hundred feet from the west exit of Shinjuku railway station. The area is best explored on foot.

When to Get There

Memory Lane is best enjoyed in the evenings. It starts to get busy every night from around 6 pm onwards when locals and tourists alike crowd into the alleys to try the street food. Try to leave big bags back at the hotel as space is limited.

Visit Shinjuku Goen

A breath of fresh air in the bustling and sometimes chaotic Shinjuku district, the Shinjuku Goen park has winding paths that travel past trees and quiet pools, offering a welcome sense of space. It’s also one of the most popular parks in Tokyo to visit during the cherry blossom festival, or hanami, that takes place every year in late March/early April.

Ways to explore

Memory Lane is a series of narrow lanes that run alongside the north of Shinjuku railway station, and has been a part of Tokyo life for decades. The best way to enjoy the street is to throw yourself into the throng on a Shinjuku food tour, which will help you decipher Japanese characters and learn about local etiquette. Thanks to its seedy past, Memory Lane also features on dark history walking tours of Tokyo and, of course, bar crawls—it is hailed as a nightlife hot spot, after all.

Accessibility

While Memory Lane is relatively flat and even, narrow walkways and crowds might make navigating the alley in a wheelchair challenging.

Age limits

The drinking age in Japan is 20, so bring ID if you plan to stop for a beer.

What to pack

Many of the shops on Memory Lane are cash only, so bring plenty of yen for your feast.

What to wear

Institutions in this narrow alley are cramped, so leave large coats at home and wear lightweight clothing that won’t take up too much space.

Not allowed

Staying longer than the 1.5-hour time limit that many restaurants have.

Amenities

Bars, eateries, convenience stores, vending machines

Address

Even though it’s tucked away, it’s still easy to find Memory Lane thanks to excellent signposting. Make your journey easier by taking the west exit from JR Shinjuku station or exits C7 or C8 at Seibu Shinjuku station.

Driving

This part of Japan’s capital is a chaotic place to drive, due to a high volume of pedestrian traffic and limited parking spaces; it’s a much better idea to explore on foot.

Public transportation

The closest station to Memory Lane is Shinjuku, which is served by the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku, and Toei Oedo lines. The entrance is clearly marked with neon signs and lanterns.

Best times to visit

Visit in the evening for a local dinner and to see the eateries illuminated and at their liveliest. Most businesses don't open until late afternoon.

Best days to visit

While many locals stop here for after-work drinks during the week, Memory Lane is liveliest at the weekends when Tokyo comes to party.

Best months to visit

Summer is an unpleasant time to cram into tiny bars and alleys; Memory Lane is better suited to the cooler fall and winter months from September to February.

Special events

In July, this central Tokyo spot comes to life with the parades of the Shinjuku Eisa Festival.