Pella

The basics

Excavations in Pella began in 1979, but there’s still much to uncover. This should be no surprise, considering the site—eventually part of the Roman Decapolis, Rome’s conquest of Palestine—was continuously inhabited since the Paleolithic era, when humans lived as hunters and gatherers. Located amid the rolling hills of the sublimely scenic Jordan Valley (an attraction in its own right), the site boasts a Canaanite temple, Roman theater, and Mamluk mosque among its eclectic historical offerings.

Visitors can easily find hotels and guesthouses nearby, and spending a few days exploring this verdant and picturesque corner of Jordan is an excellent option, especially for hikers. However, most travelers visit Pella as a day trip from Irbid, Jerash, or Amman. The fastest option is a half-day, there-and-back excursion from the capital, while full-day itineraries combine visits to Umm Qais or Aljoun Castle. Both private and shared tours are available.

Things to know before you go

• Attractions are spread out, so be prepared to triple or even quadruple your daily step count. Dress accordingly, with loose and comfortable clothing, a hat for sun protection, and good walking shoes. Some steep uphill climbing is required, making this sadly off-limits to visits in wheelchairs or with limited mobility.

• While the ruins are impressive, some guesswork and imagination are required to picture the site in its various heydays. It is recommended to either visit with a guide who can provide context on what you’re seeing or come armed with a good guidebook. You will find very little signage.

• Keep your eyes peeled during the drive to the site, as getting there is half the attraction. The road takes you through forested landscapes and fertile hills and valleys—a true feast for the senses, especially if you’ve spent time in the desert.

How to get there

The archaeological site of Pella is situated directly outside the town of Taqabat Fahl, close to Jordan’s border with Israel. It is about 50 miles (80 kilometers) from Amman and reachable by car in under two hours. Jerash and Irbid are about an hour’s drive away along Route 20 and Route 65, respectively. A private or rental car is recommended to reach the site independently, while guided tours typically offer round-trip transportation.

When to get there

Pella is open daily from 8am until 6pm, with the last on-site ticket sales an hour before closing. The Jordan Valley experiences dry and temperate sunny weather most of the year. The exception is summer when temperatures can easily exceed 100º F (around 38º C). If you visit in June, July, or August, try to arrive at opening time and bring lots of water.

On the trail of Rome’s Decapolis: Umm Qais

Located about a 40-minute drive from Pella, this Roman-era archaeological site—once a city called Gadara—is known for its still-standing colonnade of pillars made from black basalt stones. But perhaps even more impressive than the ruins are the site’s expansive views. A dizzyingly endless cross-border panorama stretches to Syria’s Golan Heights, Mount Hermon (shared by Syria and Lebanon), a sliver of the Palestinian plains, and Lake Tiberias in northern Israel.