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POINT OF INTEREST

Pinaisara Falls

Taketomi, Japan, 907-1541

Surrounded by Iriomote’s dense jungle are the Pinaisara Falls, a torrent of water said to resemble an old man’s beard as it gushes down from a height similar to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. For many visitors, though, the real highlight is the trip there, kayaking through mangroves and trekking through jungle to reach the falls.

The basics

The Pinaisara Falls site is in Okinawa Prefecture on Iriomote, a remote island in the Yaeyama chain that’s closer to Taiwan than mainland Japan. Once you’ve reached it via planes and boats, the simplest way to get to the falls is to take a guided tour. These usually last a whole day to cover round-trip transportation from the port or your accommodations, along with kayaking, trekking, and a picnic lunch.

Things to know before you go

  • An independent visit to the falls will take a minimum of 3 hours; most tours are longer than this.

  • Since the falls were made a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s no longer possible to canoe or kayak independently to the site.

  • Bring bug spray, sunscreen, a hat, and sturdy walking shoes. Check if your tour operator offers water shoes and life jackets.

  • Sections of the jungle trail involve some steep scrambles, not suitable for travelers with mobility impairments.

How to get there

Take a flight from Naha on Okinawa island to Ishigaki, then a bus or taxi to Yahimi Port. From there, it’s a 1-hour ferry ride to Uehara Port on Iriomote’s north coast, the departure point for many excursions to the falls. If you’ve rented a car, you can find your way to the nearby parking lot via Google Maps, then follow a trail app on your smartphone, as the route isn’t well signposted. It’s worth researching your route in advance, since data connections are unreliable on the island.

When to get there

The route through the jungle to the falls can feel uncomfortably hot and humid in the summer, while the rainy months of May and June see the trails become slippery, with an abundance of mosquitoes and leeches. The best time to visit is through late fall and winter, when the volume of water coming down the falls is more impressive, but the chance of a mid-hike downpour is less likely.

More kayaking options

The mangrove forests around Iriomote’s Nakama River offer the perfect setting for nature-loving kayakers. Many trips to the Pinaisara Falls include a stint by kayak, but if you’d like to explore more of the island via water, there are other interesting options. Look out for nighttime kayak or stand-up paddleboard (SUP) tours—often with clear views of a starry night sky. Between June and August, you can also see the phantom flower of Sagaribana, which blooms at night and disappears at dawn.

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