Santa Margherita Ligure
Santa Margherita Ligure, Genoa, Liguria
Settled into a nook on the eastern side of Liguria’s Portofino peninsula is Santa Margherita Ligure. Like its glamorous Portofino neighbor, the town started out as a fishing village, although little trace of this lingers today. For visitors nowadays, the vibe is more refined riviera resort with Belle Epoque hotels, a yacht-filled harbor, and genteel palaces such as Villa Durazzo. Nearby beach hangout Paraggi Bay is also a draw.
The Basics
A popular holiday destination among Italians, Santa Margherita Ligure is much less well-known among international travelers, making it an attractive alternative to other coastal towns in Liguria, like Cinque Terre and Camogli, which are often expensive and crowded.
You can easily explore the town's sights during a half-day walking tour and still have time to relax on the beach before sunset. Attractions include a 16th-century castle (Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure), the Chiesa di Santa Margherita d'Antiochia and adjacent Santuario di Nostra Signora della Rosa, the tiny Oratorio di Sant'Erasmo set directly on the water's edge, and Villa Durazzo, known for its 19th-century English-style botanical garden.
Things to Know Before You Go
Santa Margherita Ligure has a number of beaches: The most popular are the Spiaggia Minaglia, the Spiaggia Regina Elena, and the Bau Bau beaches along the road to Portofino.
The town is relatively level and compact, though Villa Durazzo is set on a hilltop just outside the center, so some uphill walking is required.
With its mix of indoor and outdoor sights and beaches, Santa Maria Ligure is an ideal destination for families on a private tour.
How to Get There
Unlike Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure has a train station, making it easier to access from elsewhere in Italy. High-speed trains from Milan, Rome, Florence, and Venice connect through Genoa (Genova), just a 30-minute train ride away. From Portofino, you can take the bus or ferry.
When to Get There
Santa Margherita Ligure is a seaside town and so is best visited during the tourist season from April through September when shops and restaurants are open. Many businesses shutter for the winter.
Cervara Abbey (La Cervara)
Along the coastal road between Santa Maria Ligure and Portofino, the 14th-century Cervara Abbey—also known as the Complesso Monumentale La Cervara, Abbazia di San Girolamo, or San Girolamo al Monte di Portofino in Italian—is a beautiful complex including a church, cloister, and gardens. The abbey is located within the confines of the Portofino Regional Park (Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino) near Paraggi Bay (Baia di Paraggi).
Ways to explore
Along with Portofino, Rapallo, Camogli, and Sestri Levante, Santa Margherita Ligure is one of the much-loved tourist towns on the Gulf of Tigullio on the Ligurian Riviera. While some are drawn to it as a slightly less expensive, lower-key alternative to Portofino, the town has its own attractions and is a destination in its own right. Day trips and shore excursions from Genoa often combine a visit to Portofino with Santa Margherite Ligure, while trips from La Spezia tend to combine visits to Santa Margherita Ligure with one of the Cinque Terre villages, further down the coast.
Accessibility
The waterfront at Santa Margherita Ligure is mostly smooth and accessible to wheelchair users. Accessibility varies throughout the town.
Age limits
None
What to pack
Water shoes for the shingle beaches, a towel to sit on
What to wear
Beachwear only on the beach, something elegant for the town
Not allowed
Venturing off the beach in your bathing suit
Amenities
Eateries, hotels, parking garages, public restrooms (main streets and promenade)
Address
Santa Margherita Ligure is about 45 minutes from Genoa by car or an hour away from Levanto, the gateway to the Cinque Terre. It’s also possible to take the train from Genoa.
Driving
From Genoa, follow the A12 highway south, and take the exit for Rapallo. Santa Margherita Ligure is signposted from here, and it’s only 10 minutes away. Via Aurelia, a coastal road, is a longer but more scenic route. As in many smaller towns in Italy, parking spaces are limited in the busier summer months.
Public transportation
The town sits on the Genoa-La Spezia rail line, offering easy connections from both destinations. From Genoa, there are regular train departures and the journey takes between 16 and 50 minutes. The Santa Margherita Ligure-Portofino station is in the center of town, close to beaches and hotels, making it a great option for car-free travelers.
Best times to visit
Come in the morning for a quieter vibe, or in the evening when the bars become lively and the waterfront nightclubs come to life. Avoid the shops in the middle of the day, as they shut for a few hours during lunch.
Best days to visit
Midweek is the calmest time, but avoid Mondays if you want a wider choice of eateries, as some of the smaller local restaurants close on this day.
Best months to visit
The town is at its liveliest in the summer between June and August, but it can feel crowded during these months. Spring and fall are more pleasant for sightseeing and hiking.
Special events
As with many coastal towns, there may be parties and events around Ferragosto (August 15), which is the big summer vacation for Italians. Outside of the main season, the Festa della Primavera is usually held in March, and involves bonfires and concerts on the beaches.
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