Shibamata
Tokyo, Japan, 125-0052
Eastern Tokyo’s Shibamata neighborhood retains an old-fashioned, traditional charm, in a city dominated by sleek skyscrapers and flashing neon. At its heart is the Shibamata Taishakuten Temple, famous for its wooden carvings similar to those at Nikko’s UNESCO–listed Toshogu Shrine. The neighborhood is also home to a handful of other attractions, so it’s worth making the trip from central Tokyo.
The basics
Bordering Chiba and Saitama prefectures, Shibamata is a good example of an old town on Tokyo’s periphery; it’s not far from the glitz and glamor of Shinjuku and Ginza, but also a world away. Aside from its wonderfully carved temple, also visit the shopping street (full of local delicacies) and the Yamamoto-tei merchant house. Japanese movie fans might also like the Tora-san Museum, dedicated to the popular Otoko wa Tsurai yo movie series that ran from the 1960s to the 1990s.
Most people visit Shibamata independently as it’s off Tokyo’s main tourist circuit. A fun activity is to take a small traditional wooden boat across the Edo River (Edogawa) from the Yagiri no Watashi crossing.
Things to know before you go
If you’re missing green space in uber-urban Tokyo, stroll along the grassy banks of the Edo River where there are walking and cycling paths.
Admission to the Shibamata Taishakuten Temple is free, but there’s a fee to visit the attached wood-carving gallery and garden and the Yamamoto-tei merchant house.
While the Tora-san Museum is a popular local attraction, it’s of limited interest to travelers unfamiliar with the Japanese movie series.
How to get there
Shibamata is about 30–60 minutes by train from central Tokyo, depending on where you’re coming from. From Keisei-Ueno or Nippori stations, take the Keisei Main Line to Keisei-Takasago Station, then transfer to the Keisei Kanamachi Line to reach Shibamata. All of Shibamata’s attractions are within walking distance of the station.
When to get there
The Shibamata Taishakuten Temple is open 24 hours, but the wood-carving gallery and garden are open during regular business hours. The Yamamoto-tei merchant house is closed on the third Tuesday of every month but is otherwise open from morning until early evening. In winter, boats on the Yagiri no Watashi typically only run on weekends.
Visit Ueno’s old town
Explore Ueno to experience an older side of Tokyo without traveling as far as Shibamata. Beyond the museums and galleries in the park, Ueno retains an old-school, somewhat grungy atmosphere and working-class traditions. Walk beneath the elevated railway tracks and don’t be afraid to get a bit lost off the tourist trail in Ueno.
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