Traboules of Lyon

The basics

The city has a long yet somewhat mysterious history when it comes to the traboules. Their origins may lie in the 4th century, though it’s widely thought that they became prevalent in the Middle Ages, allowing Lyon’s silk makers to skip the rain while moving precious fabric to the Saone River.

While about 500 traboules exist around three neighborhoods, only 80 are open to the public, with most of them in the old town (aka Vieux Lyon). You can explore them on your own or with a guide. Lyon walking tours, private tours, and photography tours offer a great way to discover interesting architectural details, such as Renaissance arches and curious ironwork that you might otherwise miss. Commentary also covers the traboules’ history, with tales of their use by the French Resistance during the World War II Nazi occupation.

Things to know before you go

• The Lyon Tourist Office offers free maps of the Lyon traboules.

• Aim for a visit of 1-2 hours, or longer if you like getting lost.

• If a door seems to be locked, look for a doorbell-style button to press nearby. If it opens, you can head on through.

• The historic traboules weren’t made with wheelchair users in mind, but the tourist office may be able to give advice on more manageable passageways or courtyards.

How to get there

The traboules are spread around the Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse hill, and Presqu’île neighborhoods. Only about 80 are open to the public, some of which are subtly signposted, some of which aren’t. If you’re looking for them without a guide, you can download the smartphone app Traboules par Lyon Tourisme et Congrès, which shows the locations in map or list format.

When to get there

There’s a public right of way through the traboules daily, from 7am and 7pm. Whenever you visit, remember that these are walkways around private residences, and you should visit in a way that’s respectful to local residents—keeping your voice down and taking your garbage away.

One not to miss

If you only have time to find one traboule, make it La Longue Traboule in Vieux Lyon. As its name suggests, this is the longest passageway in the city, stretching from 54, rue Saint-Jean to 27, rue de Bœuf. A walk along it covers several courtyards, tunnels, and a spiral staircase to give you a decent overview.