Trastevere
Rome, Italy
Bohemian Trastevere is one of Rome’s most historic and picturesque neighborhoods—a maze of cobblestone streets lined with lively restaurants, sidewalk cafés, and bars. Across the Tiber River (Fiume Tevere) from the center of Rome (hence the area’s name, which means "across the Tiber"), Trastevere is home to one of Rome’s oldest churches, the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere (built in AD 340), and a wealth of artwork, including Raphael frescoes at Villa Farnesina.
The basics
Many of this neighborhood’s narrow streets are closed to traffic, so the best way to explore is by getting off the beaten path with a guided walking tour—though Vespa and bike tours are also fun options. Trastevere is famous for its excellent cuisine, so consider taking a food tour to discover traditional Roman dishes, Italian wines, and open-air food markets. Alternatively, choose a Trastevere tour after dark to rub elbows with young Romans out for a night on the town.
Things to know before you go
Trastevere’s nightlife centers around the bustling Piazza Trilussa, in front of the Ponte Sisto.
If you love authentic Italian food and wine, Trastevere is considered one of the best neighborhoods in Rome for meals, wine tastings, and festive ambience.
Tours of Trastevere often include visits to the Jewish Ghetto and Campo de’ Fiori, both located just across the river.
How to get there
Trastevere lies along the west bank of the Tiber River, south of Vatican City. To reach the neighborhood, cross the Ponte Sisto on foot, or take the 8 tram across the Ponte Garibaldi just north of Tiber Island (Isola Tiberina).
When to get there
Trastevere is delightful to explore all year round, though the neighborhood is best appreciated when the weather is mild; check the hours of any historic sights you'd like to see there in advance. For a unique look into one of the most lively neighborhoods in the Eternal City, take a leisurely stroll by night. Like much of Rome, the area gets crowded in the summer.
Caravaggio in Trastevere
In the early 17th century, Caravaggio was commissioned to paint “The Death of the Virgin” for the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Scala in Trastevere. The master painter’s realistic depiction of the Virgin as swollen and bare-legged was considered blasphemous, and the parish rejected his work. It now hangs in the Louvre in Paris.
Ways to explore
Many of this neighborhood’s narrow streets are closed to traffic, so the best way to explore is by getting off the beaten path with a guided walking tour—though Vespa and bike tours are also options. Trastevere is famous for its excellent cuisine, so consider taking a food tour to discover traditional Roman dishes, Italian wines, and open-air food markets. Alternatively, choose a Trastevere underground tour to discover the quarter’s subterranean ruins, or combine a guided visit to the neighborhood with a walk around the nearby Jewish Ghetto.
Accessibility
Trastevere’s winding cobblestone streets may be challenging to navigate with a wheelchair, but many of the main attractions are wheelchair accessible.
Age limits
None; Trastevere’s nightlife is best suited to those 18 and older.
What to pack
Refillable water bottle for the nasoni (century-old drinking fountains)
What to wear
Comfortable walking shoes, clothing that covers legs and shoulders (for entry to churches), sunglasses, camera
Not allowed
Don’t be fooled by touristy restaurants touting all-day dining. If you get hungry before Rome’s customary 8pm dinnertime, partake in the local tradition of aperitivo, a selection of pre-dinner drinks and light bites available all over Trastevere.
Address
Trastevere is located on the west bank of the Tiber River, just across from Campo de’ Fiori and the Jewish Ghetto. It’s best to get there on a scenic walk from Rome’s historic center by crossing the Ponte Sisto bridge.
Driving
Driving in traffic-heavy Rome is notoriously difficult, and parking in Trastevere can be hard to come by. Get to this pedestrian-preferred neighborhood by taxi or rideshare instead.
Public transportation
Tram lines make it easy to get to Trastevere from other parts of Rome. Take line 8 from Piazza Venezia to the Belli stop, or ride line 3 to get to Trastevere from Parco Celio near the Colosseum.
Best times to visit
For a quieter atmosphere in Trastevere’s historic churches and piazzas, visit in the early morning. To experience the neighborhood’s signature nightlife, go after dinner.
Best days to visit
There’s no bad day to explore Trastevere—just check the opening hours of any attractions you’d like to visit.
Best months to visit
Trastevere is best experienced on an outdoor stroll, so aim to visit in April–May or September–October, when Rome’s daytime temperatures may reach around 75°F (24°C).
Special events
Every year from mid-to-late July, the Trastevere district celebrates its patron saint, Madonna del Carmine, with lively processions and other festivities in the Festa de’ Noantri.
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