The allure of one of Mexico’s prettiest cities is its intricate Colonial-era architecture, over-the-top foodie scene, artsy vibe and friendly people. Considered one of Mexico’s safest cities, San Miguel de Allende is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a city to savor as you eat and drink your way through it. Commonly called San Miguel or SMA, I was first drawn to the city for my first international solo trip in 2006. When a group of friends suggested spending a long weekend in San Miguel, I jumped at the chance to return to the colorful city to explore, relax and overindulge. Here are the top things to do in San Miguel de Allende.
1. Step Inside the Parroquia
Famous for its neo-Gothic multitowered design, the 17th-century Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the cornerstone of the historic district. As you enter through the enormous intricately carved wooden doors, you’re greeted with a blend opulent grandeur and serenity. Origins of the church can be traced to the 16th century, but construction on the stunning pink church with towering spires, sweeping arches and intricate carvings of saints and religious figures didn’t start until the 17th century. If you want a moment of solitude in the church go early morning, outside of the daily 7 a.m. mass.
Make sure to visit the Templo de San Rafael (Santa Escuela de Cristo) next the Parroquia. While not as opulent as the Parroquia, its vibrant blue floor, beautiful frescos and alter are worth seeing. Sit on a park bench or grab a meal at one of the restaurants or cafes surrounding the Jardin and admire the church’s spectacular façade. The iconic landmark can be from rooftops across the city.
2. Soak in the Sunset from a Rooftop
Sipping a cocktail from a rooftop gazing at the city’s famous Parroquia is extra special at sunset. One of the best views is from Luna Rooftop at Rosewood San Miguel de Allende. Sip a spritz or a sunset margarita as you nibble on chips and fresh traditional guacamole while the sky fills with pink and orange hues over the rooftop skyline of San Miguel. I recommend the fish tacos; made Ensenada style, they are phenomenal. Save room for churros for dessert. When the sky transitions from streaks of vivid colors to darkness, the view of twinkling lights dotting the cityscape is just as breathtaking as the sunset.
3. Savor the Flavors as You Eat and Sip Your Way Through City
From a delectable pastelito (pastry) with coffee to a nightcap listening to live music, eating is a sensual experience for your tastebuds as you eat and drink your way through San Miguel. If you’re a tequila or mezcal fan, San Miguel’s spirits and cocktails scene will wow you. Ditch the diet. Indulge and imbibe while enjoying the globally infused flavors of San Miguel’s over-the-top culinary scene ranging from the elegant Asian cuisine at Kan Bei to gourmet tacos at La Única to elevated Spanish dishes at Paella by Rodrigo de la Calle. We asked multiple local food connoisseurs and expats for their favorite restaurants. Hands down the overwhelming winner is The Restaurant. Originally from El Paso, Texas, Chef Donnie Masterton honed his craft in restaurants from Beverly Hills to Manhattan before the desire to live a simpler life led him to San Miguel in 2005 and then opening The Restaurant. We started by sipping pre-dinner cocktails in the swanky bar as a DJ spun records adding a lively vibe to the space. We devoured a smorgasbord of appetizers ranging from roasted beet tiradito to beef carpaccio. We happened to dine on burger night, which locals raved about their gourmet versions. We started dinner under the stars in the stunning colonial courtyard, but as a storm rolled in, they closed the retractable roof, which was also a hit with our group.
On a beautiful night, dine rooftop at Quince. The vivacious restaurant has phenomenal sushi and other culinary delights inspired by the region. While we dined, a strolling violinist rocked the house playing 80s tunes sliding her glow bow across her instrument. They also serve breakfast and lunch on weekends. Another option for an amazing breakfast on a rooftop is Selina. Just off the main square and with a fabulous view of the Parroquia, head to the rooftop at Cielo for lunch or an afternoon drink.
Having a leisurely lunch along the Jardin is a must. It is the best people-watching in the city. For a high tourist area, the food is surprisingly good. Our group loved Centro Bar SMA. We went first for a drink and were serenaded by talented mariachis. We went back for lunch and inhaled a variety of their elevated tacos.
Wanting a drink and a quick nosh mid-afternoon, we wandered into colorful yet elegant Casa Arca. A Hugo spritz pairs beautifully with their ceviche and guacamole in their colorful space. It’s also where we found Casa Dragones. You can book a tequila tasting there and it's home to the smallest tequila bar in the world.
4. Check Out the Coffee Scene
Coffee brewing is an artisanal craft in this creative city. Even the Starbucks housed in a colonial building near the Jardin will surprise you. Sip an iced coffee while people-watching at one of the restaurants along the Jardin. Escape to a tiny coffeehouse like Café Santos where you can sip a latte and feel miles away from tourist crowds. Ki’Bok Coffee is a favorite of locals. The three-story cafe is known for its coffee, but you should sample their cuisine and order the ceviche de jicama.
5. Stroll, Shop and Admire Art
Cobblestone streets invoke an artsy flair and a bit of romance in a nod to San Miguel’s illustrious past. They’re lined with quaint shops and artisan-filled galleries. On weekends, peruse the art stands in El Parque Benito Juárez. If you’re a high-end shopper, Casa R boutique is filled with clothes and jewelry from Mexican designers. Walk along any street off the Jardin and wander into lovely courtyards surrounded by boutiques and galleries. Art appreciators will enjoy the gallery at Casa 1810 Hotel Boutique. Even the doors of San Miguel are works of art. Every door you open is like walking into a whole new world.
6. Explore San Miguel’s Architecture and History
San Miguel was originally one of Mexico’s Pueblo Mágicos, until it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 because of its 16th-century Spanish Colonial Baroque architecture and historical significance during the Mexican War of Independence. The district encompasses
64 blocks of historic buildings, homes and public squares. Founded in 1542, San Miguel de Allende was a major stop along the Antiguo Camino Real, or silver route from Zacatecas. One of the best ways to experience the architectural beauty of the city is on an early morning walk when the streets are void of cars and sidewalks are quiet. If you want a good workout, walk uphill to the scenic overlook for a fabulous view of the city. If you’d rather go at a slower pace, grab a latte and croissant at Hortus, an artisanal panadería on the Jardin and wander along any of the streets. Head into the San Antonio neighborhood to see an 18th-century church and charming streets lined with beautiful homes. Wander through the vibrant art district of Guadalupe or walk along the tree-lined streets of Atascadero, a quieter neighborhood close to the Charco del Ingenio botanical garden.
7. Focus on Wellness
Whether it’s food, cocktails, or both, odds are you’ll likely indulge while in San Miguel. Take some time to focus on wellness while you’re there. If you want to work up a sweat, walk or run the track at Parque Benito Juárez with other morning fitness fans. Join in on a pickup game of basketball on the courts or take part in a yoga class in the gazebo. Thermal springs traverse the terrain stemming from ancient volcanic activity. For a soaking experience to enjoy the healing properties of the thermal waters, slip into a hot spring at Escondido Place, La Gruta, or the Mayan Baths. For the ultimate relaxation and rejuvenate experience, book a treatment at Sense, a Rosewood Spa®. Leave the buzz of the city as you’re pampered with a treatment incorporating indigenous ingredients and healing traditions. Their “Lost Remedies” are based on astrophysical connection and herbal healing used by Otomi natives for centuries. I did the healing earth ritual treatment which starts with an herbal foot soak followed by a full-body salt scrub, massage with a balancing oil, warmed peat foot mask and ending with a facial massage and reflexology on your feet. It’s divine. After your treatment, stop in the 1826 Tequila Bar to sip from their extensive collection of tequilas and mezcal or enjoy a Rosewood label wine paired with a charcuterie board.
8. Sip and Savor the Local Wine
While the cocktail scene is spirit-forward in San Miguel, you might be pleasantly surprised by vibrant vine to glass experiences nearby. From chardonnay to cabernet sauvignon, any oenophile will enjoy sipping and appreciating local wines. With multiple wine routes near San Miguel, there’s a plethora of vineyards steeped in centuries-old traditions where you can learn the winemaking process from grape to bottle or simply enjoy tastings. Viticulture in the region has a fascinating history starting with the Spanish colonial government ordering vines to be planted across Mexico in the 1520s. Except for clergy, winemaking was later outlawed until after the Mexican War of Independence when cultivating vineyards began again in 1821.
Our group made a day of it and hired a driver for a wine tasting excursion to visit two spectacular vineyards and devour a sensational lunch. First stop should be Tres Raines. The modern tasting room surrounding by rows and rows of grapevines will wow you. During our tasting, one of the biggest surprises was how their pinot noir is much darker than the normal lighter red wine. It’s because of the red clay in the soil. Their tempranillo and reserve were my favorites. After the tasting we had a lovely lunch on the terrace overlooking the vines. Order
the heirloom tomato and burrata salad. The Instagram-worthy dish is a tomato filled with local burrata cheese, topped with pistachios, basil, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It’s almost too pretty to eat.
The second winery we went to was equally picturesque setting on a lovely lake surrounded by a forest and a sprawling pastoral landscape of grape vines, olive trees and lavender fields. We sat at a lakeside table at La Santísima Trinidad (the three roots) and ordered their sparkling rosé. We enjoyed it so much we bought a bottle to enjoy at our vacation rental Casa Abejas. In addition to the winery and tasting room, La Santísima Trinidad also has a beautiful restaurant and boutique hotel.
9. Visit Mexico’s Sistine Chapel
Sanctuary of Jesús de Nazareno de Atotonilco is a 15-minute drive from San Miguel. The historic complex is home to Mexico’s version of the Sistine Chapel with magnificent mural paintings dawning the walls and ceiling of the church. We had planned to visit on our wine tour day, but the weather turned stormy and we thought we’d make it back out that way.
I suppose it’s one reason I need to return, along with hiking, enjoying live music and wandering through the stunning city. Three days is simply not enough time to experience it all. Like me, your first trip to San Miguel de Allende likely won’t be your last after you fall in love with this gem of a city.