Katharo Plateau
Agios Nikolaos, Crete
Crete’s Katharo Plateau is about as serene as it gets, featuring little beyond shepherds, their flocks, and a few tavernas. High in the Dikti Mountains, this barely inhabited spot offers fabulous views, open landscapes, and a tranquil atmosphere known for shepherding—and ancient myths. For visitors with a 4-wheel drive and boots to dirty, the Katharo Plateau provides an enticing glimpse into Crete's rural life.
The basics
Sitting at 3,770 feet (1,150 meters) above sea level, Crete’s Katharo Plateau is even higher than the more well-known Lasithi Plateau. With surprisingly harsh winters, there’s not much development up here, and that’s the appeal. The nearest village is Kritsa, about 7.5 miles (12 kilometers) away via a rough asphalt road. Kritsa is well worth a stop to see traditional Cretan life, and as most Crete visitors—and even locals—spend their time nearer the shores, getting a look at Crete’s higher landscapes can feel like striking gold. Up here, you’ll wander open roads, stop at tavernas, listen to the goats make mountain music, and take in the panoramic views.
You’ll want a 4-wheel drive to get here—or skip the driving hassles entirely and book an overland safari tour.
Things to know before you go
- If you tackle the drive from Kritsa yourself, be prepared for plenty of hairpin turns.
- Be wary of storms on the mountain—if a storm is forecast, delay your trip.
- If you plan to explore outdoors, wear layers and sunscreen, and bring plenty of water.
- Much of the plateau doesn’t have Wi-Fi, so preload your maps (or bring one!).
How to get there
The nearest “big city” is Agios Nikolaos, about 16 miles (26 kilometers) away. Your best bet to explore this undeveloped area is with your own vehicle, though make sure it can handle rough roads. Make the drive to Kritsa, and follow the signs to the plateau, or book a 4WD tour, like a Jeep tour, and let your driver do the “dusty” work.
When to get there
The Katharo Plateau is largely uninhabited come winter. The cold season from November to March is surprisingly harsh here, and the rough roads don’t make it easy to explore with snowfall. To stay safe and make sure the limited amenities are open (aka the few tavernas), visit from May to September.
Driving back in time
As they say, “the journey is the destination”. On the drive to the Katharo Plateau, stop to literally smell the flowers, poke around small caves, and admire the view before popping by the tavernas lined in fields of bell-jangling goats. If you want more backcountry thrills—and you have an off-road vehicle or have booked a private driver—make the wilder, rougher drive to the Lasithi Plateau, which contains gems like Zeus’s Cave.
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