Macellum of Pozzuoli (Temple of Serapis)

The basics

A statue of the Greek god Serapis was unearthed when the Macellum of Pozzuoli was excavated in the 18th century, so some believed the site to have been a temple. Though it was later determined to be a marketplace, the name Temple of Serapis is still often used to describe the ruins.

By any name, this ancient site is a highlight of archaeology tours through the Phlegraean Fields (Campi Flegrei), a regional park just outside Naples. Join a tour by bike, boat, or private driver to take in this ancient market, along with other area highlights like the Flavian Amphitheater and the Underwater Archaeological Park of Baia. In addition to these sights, the Phlegraean Fields are known for scenic landscapes, cuisine, and wineries, which some tours include.

Things to know before you go

• The ancient sites in the Phlegrean Fields are much less crowded than other blockbuster sites nearby, such as Pompeii, so a good choice for fans of archaeology who want to avoid the throngs.
• The Macellum of Pozzuoli is outdoors, so wear a hat, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes when visiting.
• The site is set in a pool of water, so can only be viewed from outside. There's a paved overlook along one side that is accessible to wheelchair users.
• A number of restaurants and cafés are set around the site, perfect for a quick snack or meal.

How to get there

Pozzuoli is accessible by train from Naples, but the most convenient and stress-free way to visit this and other ancient ruins in the Phlegraean Fields is by joining a tour that includes transportation.

When to get there

The archaeological site is outdoors with very little shade, so avoid visiting during the worst of the midday heat. Instead, tour in the morning or late afternoon, and cool off during the hottest hours of the day with a dip in the nearby Mediterranean.

The shifting ground in the Phlegraean Fields

In the Phlegraean Fields Regional Park just outside Naples, many ancient ruins are currently underwater due to the volcanic shifts in the area over the millennia. The Macellum of Pozzuoli is no exception, and while there are columns rising high above the modern ground level, the original ground level of the market itself is well below water. (The visible columns show evidence of shellfish, since they were once underwater, too.) Because the market is near the middle of the volcanic caldera that makes up the epicenter of the Phlegraean Fields, the ground level continues to move up and down very slowly. Visitors today won’t notice the shift in ground level, though geologists track the site constantly.