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POINT OF INTEREST

Phansi Museum

500 Esther Roberts Road, Glenwood, Berea, KwaZulu-Natal, 4001

Located in a 19th-century villa that was once home to anthropologist and activist Esther Roberts, Durban’s Phansi Museum hosts a world-class collection of Southern African art and artifacts. Galleries feature statues, body art, beadwork, pottery, and textiles, while the space also hosts classes, book launches, workshops, and exhibitions.

The basics

The word “phansi” means “below” or “beneath” in the Zulu language, and the museum began as owner Paul Mikula’s private collection in his basement. Today, the Phansi Museum is one of Durban’s leading cultural institutions, headed by “dancing curator” Phumzile Nkosi. Many cultural tours in Durban stop by to admire the collection, which shows insights into the spiritual and cultural development of the region’s Indigenous communities. Tickets are affordably priced and there’s no need to book in advance.

Things to know before you go

  • The Phansi Museum is a must for fans of art and African culture.

  • The museum shop is a great place to buy authentic South African art and support local artists.

  • The Roberts House is a heritage villa with lots of stairs. It’s not suitable for travelers who rely on wheelchairs.

How to get there

The Phansi Museum sits in Glenwood, a central suburb of Durban and a 4-mile (6-kilometer) drive southwest of the train station. Most travelers will find it easiest to self-drive, join a tour, use a ride-hailing service, or take a taxi.

When to get there

The Phansi Museum is open from morning to mid-afternoon Monday through Friday and from mid-morning until after lunch on Saturday. It’s quieter on weekdays. Look out for special events and occasional surprise closures.

On the African art trail in Durban

The Durban Art Gallery, housed in the City Hall, was one of the earliest government institutions to recognize African art as art, and its small collection is well worth a look. Meanwhile, the Campbell Collections, a private collection accessed by appointment only, includes both contemporary African art and early photographs and paintings of local life and costumes. The Kwazulu Natal Society of Arts hosts regularly changing exhibitions by modern South African artists.

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