Sonargaon
Sonargoan, Dhaka Division
Historic Sonargaon contains some of the oldest buildings in Bangladesh and is a beautiful and atmospheric place to visit. Sonargaon was the ancient capital of Bengal, a historic kingdom now divided between India and Bangladesh. It was also home to Hindu merchants who fled in the mid-20th century. Archaeological sites, historic buildings, and cultural museums are spread around the city.
The basics
Travelers interested in history, architecture, and culture shouldn’t miss Sonargaon. Layers of Bangladeshi history can be seen here. A highlight of any visit is the Folk Art and Craft Museum, a complex with a museum, mansion, lakes, and performance spaces. The old Hindu Panama Nagar area is another must-visit, with atmospheric abandoned buildings that are very photogenic. Other mosques, tombs, and attractions are dotted nearby.
Located just south-east of Dhaka, Sonargaon is an accessible day-trip destination from the capital. Many people join private guided day tours, which are the most comfortable travel method. They often include a boat ride on the Meghna River.
Things to know before you go
Some sites in Sonargaon have entry fees, but these are minimal. Have small change ready.
The folk museum is a popular picnic destination, but you must book a picnic spot directly with the museum.
Wear appropriate clothes for the weather, as many attractions around Sonargaon are outdoors.
How to get there
Most travelers visit Sonargaon on an organized tour from Dhaka. It’s about 22 miles (36 kilometers) from central Dhaka, which takes 1.5–2 hours to drive. To go independently, catch a bus from Dhaka’s Gulistan bus stand and go to Mograpara. From there, you can ride a rickshaw to Sonargaon or hire a rickshaw driver for the day to shuttle you around.
When to get there
The folk museum is closed on Thursdays, and Panam Nagar is closed on Sundays, so avoid these days. Visit the museum in March to see a month-long folklore festival. It’s best to visit Bangladesh in the cool winter, November through February, and to avoid the destructive monsoon season (May–September).
Sonargaon under threat
For many years, the World Monuments Fund has had its eye on Sonargaon as a threatened site of cultural significance. Bangladesh’s low-lying terrain is very vulnerable to flooding, which impacts the old buildings in Sonargaon. Further, it has been threatened by illegal development and unauthorized occupation. In 2009, the Bangladesh government took control of Panam Nagar and declared it a protected site. It’s now fenced and ticketed to preserve it.
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