Kawaihae
What you're really here for are the beaches south of town—a few of them among the prettiest and most frequented along the Kohala Coast. Touting typically calm waters and a full host of facilities (bathrooms, showers, picnic tables and lifeguard stations), the northernmost strand, Spencer Beach Park (the access road is off SR 270 between mileposts 2 and 3) is popular with local families . A gorgeous, sandy crescent, Mauna Kea Beach lies just south (the access road is off SR 19 at Milepost 68) and is the stuff of glossy coffee-table books. Snorkeling is very good around the rocks to the left. The limited parking situation can be a headache; arrive early.
At SR 19's Milepost 69, take the turnoff for always-busy Hāpuna Beach . No parking nightmares here; the lot can accommodate a few hundred cars. This broad, picturesque, half-mile-long golden sand beach has it all: shady picnic areas, snack bars, plenty of elbow room on the shore, rows of tanned hides and fun bodyboarding when the surf's up. For a bit less bustle at an equally beautiful beach, try Waialea Bay (from SR 19, take the turnoff for Puakō Road and follow signs). This is a wonderful beach with a series of sandy, scalloped coves. Snorkeling is decent around the offshore rocks in the middle of the bay, and there's a small rock arch at Waialea's northern end.